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Aditya Mohanchandra and his father Arjun took a slow trip to Kasar Devi village in Uttarakhand’s Kumaon region.
Long before Kasar Devi became a pin on digital maps or a whispered recommendation among travellers, it was already known as a place of pause.
Perched on a wooded ridge in Uttarakhand’s Kumaon Himalayas, the village looks out across vast folds of pine and deodar forest towards the distant and snow-bound Nanda Devi range. At nearly 7,000 feet above sea level, the air here feels thinner and lighter, not just in altitude but in temperament.
Time seems to slow; the noise of the world below softens, replaced by the occasional rustle of leaves, the distant call of a bird, and the slow, deliberate rhythm of village life.
For Aditya Mohanchandra and his father, Arjun Mohanchandra, Kasar Devi was more than a scenic stop; it was a place that mirrored their own approach to life. Aditya, who runs a public relations (PR) agency specialising in deep-tech startups, has structured his work so it can be managed remotely.
“Running a business remotely is liberating, but it demands discipline. A good internet connection is all I need, and I can manage operations from anywhere. Yet, the real joy comes when work intersects with exploration,” he tells The Better India.
Arjun, his father, has long been a traveller at heart. “For some, travel is a choice. For me, it is in the DNA,” he says. “Even in corporate years, whenever there was a break, I would head to the mountains. Travel resets you; it lets you see the world at a different pace.”
The father-son duo share a love of offbeat destinations, drawn less to tourist circuits and more to places that offer space, stillness, and a glimpse into life away from the city hum.
Day 1: The gradual unthreading of the city
The journey to Kasar Devi begins long before reaching the village itself. From Delhi, the route winds past Nainital and Mukteshwar, then through Almora before finally leading to the location. The drive, taking nine to 10 hours, is a transition in itself.
“By the time you reach the village, your mind has already begun to shed the city’s chaos,” Aditya remarks. “You start breathing differently, noticing subtler details.”
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The first day is for acclimatisation and slow immersion. Accommodation ranges from budget to comfortable. You can stay in Freedom Guest House, which is clean, welcoming, and affordable; Rohit’s Homestay, or Hammock Inn, offers a social yet relaxed environment; and First Man of Kasar Ram Singh Mehra’s guesthouse combines comfort with local charm. Nightly rates typically range from Rs 1,500 to 3,000.
After settling in, visitors can meander through the local cafes that are central to the village’s traveller culture. Kasar 333 serves renowned Pahadi mutton with maduwe ki roti, while Zenoaks offers hearty Pahadi thalis.
Baba Cake is celebrated for its apple crumble, and Rohit’s Hammock Cafe attracts travellers from across the globe seeking both ambience and quality food. Rainbow Cafe, a sustainable mud-constructed building, provides a serene space for reading or working, while Arjun’s Cafe specialises in simple and home-cooked meals.
“The first impression of Kasar Devi hits you physically. It is a calm that seeps into your body. The village feels intentionally unhurried, as though it asks you to match its rhythm,” Arjun explains.
Day 2: The sacred ridge and the village pulse
The morning begins with a visit to the Kasar Devi Temple. Sitting atop the ridge, it affords views of the valleys and the distant Nanda Devi range.
“You can sit quietly and feel the history, the stillness, even if for just a few moments. It changes how you move through the day,” Arjun says.
A small Tibetan monastery nearby adds a contemplative layer to the village’s spiritual charm. The afternoon is ideal for exploring local stores. Kumaon Khand, specialising in hemp-based products, offers conscious gifting options that support the local economy. Wild Tattvas in Mohan’s Cafe is another haven for unique souvenirs.
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Nature walks through trails such as Simtola are quintessential for the second day. Aditya reflects, “It is not about completing a checklist. Walking slowly, observing flora, listening to birds, and interacting with locals allows the village to reveal itself. You start to feel part of the landscape rather than just a visitor.”
Day 3: Water, wilderness, and wellness
The third day is devoted to Balta Falls, a short yet moderately challenging trek through lush forests. “On one trip, my father and I found a slightly different route. It felt like discovering a hidden pocket of the landscape, a part of Kasar Devi that few see,” Aditya recalls. The afternoon invites rest and rejuvenation.
Day 4: Wildlife, stargazing, and the cosmos
A day trip to Binsar Wildlife Sanctuary, 40 kilometres from the destination, allows encounters with local wildlife and expansive forested vistas. Entry is around Rs 250 per vehicle. The sanctuary also offers an unexpected treat, like stargazing through Nakshatra Education, a local astronomy club.
Excursions cost Rs 800 to 1,000 per person and include transport. “The night sky here feels alive. Away from city lights, the stars take on a clarity and intimacy that is unforgettable,” Arjun muses.
Day 5: History and the continuum of time
The final day intertwines historical exploration with scenic immersion. The ninth-century Katarmal Sun Temple and Almora’s Malla Mahal offer insights into the region’s architectural and cultural heritage. Arjun notes, “Kasar Devi is not solely about mountains. It is a living culture, where history and present-day life coexist peacefully.”
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Budgeting and seasonal insights
Travelling in Kasar Devi is accessible for most visitors. Accommodation averages between Rs 1,500 and 2,500 per night, while meals cost roughly Rs 500 to 800 daily.
Seasonal fluctuations influence pricing, with peak periods naturally higher. The ideal window to visit is October to March, when skies are clear, views of the Nanda Devi range are unobstructed, and the weather is pleasantly crisp. “Timing makes all the difference. A clear sky can change an ordinary view into something breathtaking,” Aditya stresses.
Beyond its scenic beauty, the place offers a restorative atmosphere. “The air is crisp, the village unhurried, and the people welcoming,” Arjun observes. “You notice a harmony between nature and community. It is authentic and unmanufactured.”
Aditya adds, “Even in cafes, you meet travellers from around the world. However, it never feels crowded. There is a balance here that is hard to describe; it is quiet yet vibrant, slow yet alive.”
Responsible travel
Both father and son advocate mindful travel. “Leave no trace, because waste management here is not like the city. Respect the environment, the customs, and the community,” Arjun advises. Aditya concurs, “Engage fully. Try local cuisine, understand their lifestyle, and you will take home far more than photographs.”
Over multiple visits, the pair has amassed countless memories. For Arjun, the initial calm upon arrival remains unforgettable.
“It feels almost physical, as though the stillness slips gently into your thoughts and rearranges them,” he says. Aditya fondly recalls trekking to Balta Falls with his father, exploring less-travelled paths and hidden corners of the mountains. “And then there is the human connection,” he adds.
“Locals begin to recognise you, festivals and village life invite you in. It makes the place feel lived-in, not just visited.”
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By the end of the journey, Kasar Devi leaves an indelible mark. It is a space where time slows, where the mind can wander freely, and where the mountains, the people, and the village itself become inseparable from the experience of being there. Aditya concludes, “For anyone seeking a Himalayan experience away from the crowds, this is it.”
All pictures courtesy Aditya Mohanchandra
