24 Hours in Landour: Where 200-YO Cottages, 1890s Recipes & Himalayan Views Feel Straight Out of a Postcard

Think of Landour as Mussoorie’s quieter twin — a place where every corner feels like a bookmarked page you’ll want to revisit. This sleepy town blends colonial charm with an eclectic spirit. While here, trace its colonial past, savour hearty meals at the iconic Char Dukan, and take in sweeping Himalayan views from Lal Tibba, the town’s highest point. Let’s proceed.

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Where to stay in Landour? 

The Fern Cottage 

Set up by Delhi-born Karam Puri, The Fern Cottage is a Victorian-style property that dates back to 1924 and is spread across an acre and a half.

In its current avatar — a three-tiered cottage has four bedrooms, a kitchen, dining area, and study — it brings together heritage and beauty in both its design and decor. Stone from old homes has been repurposed into the structure, while antique furniture adds character to every room.

While here, free up your schedule for a spot of birdwatching. Landour is a haven for Ultramarine Flycatchers, Asian Barn Owls, Laughing Thrush, Oriental White Eyes, Black Eagles and the Himalayan Griffon.

Address: The Fern Cottage, Landour, Mussoorie, Uttarakhand - 248179. 

Book your stay here.

La Villa Bethany

Rhododendrons and sunsets will keep you company during your stay at La Villa Bethany. When Sunita and Amarjeet stumbled upon a dilapidated 100-year-old bungalow, they saw potential in the ruins. Today, they’ve transformed it into a piece of beauty; a quick browse through the photos is sure to spark wanderlust.

What sets the homestay apart are its thoughtful local touches — from toiletries to carpets and bed covers, all crafted by underprivileged women across Uttarakhand. Through these efforts, the couple actively supports the local economy.

Address: La Villa Bethany, Landour, Mussoorie, Uttarakhand - 248179.

Book your stay here.

The Landour Cottage

Before the year ends, tick something cool off your wish list: living in a 200-year-old cottage. 

Think of it as your very own home in the hills with a fully-equipped kitchen, living room, dining room, two bedrooms and bathrooms and a housekeeper (available upon request, at an additional cost).

Just 10 minutes away from Landour’s iconic spots, The Landour Cottage is your storybook dream wrapped into a vacation filled with evenings spent by the fireplace, mornings that open out to magnificent views of the Doon Valley, and afternoons spent hiking around the property.

Address: The Landour Cottage, Sisters Bazaar, Landour, Mussoorie, Uttarakhand, India.

Book your stay here.

Where to eat in Landour?

Landour Bakehouse

What aromas were engulfing Landour around the 1890s? Don’t wonder. Instead, step into the Landour Bakehouse, which offers you a chance to feast on dishes prepared with recipes of yesteryear.

The shelves on this mountain bakery are lined with handmade cakes, pastries and sandwiches, stuffed croissants, scones, and crepes — cultural ambassadors carrying forward the town’s culinary glory.

We hear that the Landour old-fashioned candy, peanut brittle, hot cross buns, and upside down apple cake continue to be crowd pullers.

Address: Sisters Bazaar, Landour, Mussoorie, Uttarakhand - 248179.

Emily’s

Emily’s is set in Rokeby Manor, a bungalow built in 1840 by Captain G N Cauthy and named after a book-length poem of Sir Walter Scott, which describes heroic battles fought near Rokeby Castle in England.

The menu is a cheeky nod to oriental and Indian flavours. Among the popular items are chicken stroganoff, chicken garlic kebab rolls, and shepherd’s pie.

Address: Rokeby Manor, Landour, Mussoorie, Uttarakhand - 248179. 

Char Dukan

True to its name, Char Dukan started out as a series of four shops — Anil’s Café and Tip Top Tea Shop are among them — that served coffee and snacks.

For over a century, this cluster of shops has been delighting tourists with its menus — the changing items reflecting changing palate preferences as new cultures grafted themselves into the essence of the colonial town.

But there are a few cult classics that have braved the throes of time; the bun omelettes and Mathew Wai Wai — Wai Wai noodles made in typical Maggi style with fried egg on top of it — are unmissable.

Address: F36W+F37, Chardukhan, Cant, Near SBI Bank, Landour, Mussoorie, Uttarakhand - 248179.

Where to explore the heritage of Landour?

Heritage walks along the town are routinely conducted by the Mussoorie Heritage Centre. These experiences are immersive, rich in detail, and give you a front-row seat to the evolution of the town over the years.

A typical trail covers Char Dukan; Lal Tibba — the highest point in Landour known for its panoramic views of the Garhwal Himalayas, scenic viewpoint, telescopes, and cafe; Sisters Bazaar — home to charming tea shops, the famed Landour Bakehouse, and A Prakash & Co, known for its delicious peanut butter; and finally, Ivy Cottage — the residence of the beloved author Ruskin Bond.

Book your heritage walk here.

What are the popular adventure activities in Landour?

Despite its calm temperament, Landour has adventure to offer. The forested trails around Lal Tibba and Nag Tibba attract a broad spectrum of hikers. The sites are perfect for trekking, offering panoramic views of the snow-clad Himalayas, while also giving birdwatchers a field day. You can even opt for a walk in the woods at the Jabarkhet Nature Reserve, which offers spectacular views of the mountains and an experience that seems right out a story book. 

How can you add value to your trip?

Keep an eye out for writing retreats at Ivy Cottage. What better way to explore your creative abandon than by doing it in the hills, and in the same spot that saw the writer Ruskin Bond pen some of his most iconic books? If you're in luck, you might even meet the author.

Book your writing retreat here.