The rava idli was born not out of culinary whim, but wartime necessity. Photograph: (The print)
Every morning across Bengaluru, plates of steaming idlis leave busy tiffin counters, office canteens, and family kitchens. Some are the familiar soft white rice idlis; others are the grainier, golden rava idlis — topped with a dab of ghee and a roasted cashew.
Today, they feel inseparable from South Indian breakfast culture. But one of them exists because of a global crisis.
Yes — the rava idli was born not out of culinary whim, but wartime necessity.
During World War II, Japan’s invasion of Burma cut off India’s rice supply. As the British diverted whatever rice remained to feed European troops and civilians, South India — where rice anchors daily meals — faced severe shortages.
Even iconic food institutions were not spared.
A clever workaround
One of them was a small family-run eatery in Bengaluru: the Brahmin Coffee Club, later renamed Mavalli Tiffin Rooms (MTR). Without enough rice to make idli batter, the restaurant’s founders needed a solution. Innovation arrived in the form of semolina (rava) — mixed with curd, tempered in ghee with mustard and cashews, and steamed just like a traditional idli.
That experiment worked. Light, fluffy, slightly nutty, the rava idli won hearts — not just as a substitute, but as a dish with its own identity.
A Bengaluru legacy that endures
Founded in 1924, MTR went on to shape Bengaluru’s culinary culture — from pioneering hygienic dining practices to creating packaged mixes during the Emergency. Through it all, the rava idli remained a quiet badge of ingenuity — proof that tough times can spark timeless ideas.
Even today, MTR outlets steam hundreds of rava idlis a day, and the mix has travelled across homes and restaurants worldwide. What began as a response to scarcity now sits at the centre of breakfast nostalgia for lakhs of people.
How to make rava idlis in seven simple steps
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Lightly roast rava (semolina) in ghee until fragrant
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Temper with mustard seeds, curry leaves, ginger, and cashews
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Mix in whisked curd and a little water for a thick batter
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Add salt; let the mixture rest briefly
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Stir in baking soda or Eno just before steaming
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Steam in greased idli plates until soft and fluffy
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Serve hot with coconut chutney and sambar
Tip: Let the batter rest to allow the rava to absorb moisture — but add the raising agent only right before steaming for that signature fluff.