Lease a land from a farmer,
Grow bay leaves trees on it,
Wait for three years,
and harvest at least seven to eight kgs of bay leaves from one tree.
This is how traders and farmers in North Dinajpur in West Bengal cultivate tej patta, or bay leaves, which is considered to be one of the most important spices used to make many iconic Indian dishes, including Biryani.
Back in 2007, Sukumar Barman, a farmer from the north Lakhipur village in Raiganj Block in the North Dinajpur district, decided to cultivate bay leaf plants instead of growing other conventional crops such as paddy, wheat, and mustard.
His decision paid off. Today, he harvests 80-90 quintals of bay leaves annually from his 650 trees and earns Rs 5 lakh every three years.
The growing demand for the spice has pushed many farmers from Raiganj, Hemtabad, Kaliagunj, and Islampur Blocks in the North Dinajpur district and at Kushmundi in the South Dinajpur district to cultivate bay leaves.
Women take centre stage in the bay leaf boom
What began as a quiet agricultural shift in North Dinajpur has today transformed into a thriving Rs 400-crore industry, and women are playing a crucial role in this success story.
Just 20 years ago, bay leaves weren’t even cultivated in West Bengal. North Dinajpur has emerged as the heart of bay leaf production in the state, with the spice selling at Rs 5,000 per quintal. This growth hasn't just changed farmers' fortunes—it’s also opened up a new source of livelihood for local women.
While men are largely involved in cultivating and harvesting the leaves, women step in during the next critical phase: sorting and drying. Their work ensures that only the finest-quality bay leaves make it to market.
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“Around 80% of farmers in North Dinajpur are cultivating bay leaves, and about 64% of women participate actively in separating the leaves from twigs and drying them,” says Sudeb Sarkar, a local trader who employs 25 women. “These women are mostly homemakers and skilled workers. They engage in this work for extra income to support their families. They are paid Rs 100 a day.”
For many women, like 30-year-old Alo Roy, this work is more than just a means to earn money — it’s a source of pride and independence. Alo has been working with bay leaf traders for three years, mastering the art of delicately removing leaves from twigs and preparing them for sale.
“I work from 9 in the morning till 5 in the evening. I collect leaves and remove each leaf from the twigs with care. One has to be skilled to complete the task swiftly,” she explains. I can separate at least 40–50 kg of leaves daily. I earn Rs 3 per kg for sorting leaves, and when the cutting work comes, it fetches me Rs 4.50 per kg.”
Thanks to the bay leaf boom, women like Alo are no longer on the sidelines of the agricultural economy — they’re essential to it.
How Bay Leaves are powering livelihoods in North Dinajpur
Bay leaf cultivation in North Dinajpur has expanded rapidly in recent years, turning into a sizeable industry despite its informal structure. Its low-maintenance nature and consistent demand have made it a preferred crop for many small farmers.
“It is a big industry but falls under the unorganised sector,” explains Sandip Mahanta, District Horticulture Officer and Assistant Director of Horticulture for North Dinajpur. “Bay leaf production has steadily increased in the district. Since 2020, the production of bay leaves has been steadily increasing. From cultivating 240 hectares of land in 2020, the cultivation land increased to 318 hectares last year. Parallelly, from 769 MT of bay leaf production in 2020, the production during 2024–2025 has hiked to 1019 MT.”
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Despite its rapid growth, the sector still operates informally. “We don’t have any official record for workers as it’s an unorganised sector,” Mahanta notes. Yet, he estimates that nearly 10,000 people are directly or indirectly involved in bay leaf cultivation and basic processing.
One area leading this transformation is the Hemtabad Block, now recognised as the top producer of the Bengal variety of bay leaves. According to Mahanta, one of the factors contributing to the crop’s popularity is its resilience. “A bay leaf tree requires less water and low maintenance,” he adds, making it a sustainable option for many farmers in the region.
A tree that keeps on giving
For generations, farmers like Sukumar Barman in West Bengal relied on traditional crops like paddy. But the returns were modest, and the effort was relentless.
“Growing paddy on one bigha of land would fetch just Rs 30,000–40,000 a year,” says Barman. “It took a lot of time and labour, and getting the harvest to market on time was another challenge altogether.”
In contrast, bay leaf cultivation has become a game-changer for his village. “It has brought real economic development to our area,” he says.
And it’s not just about the spice. The tree’s twigs are ground into powders, its leaves are used as a natural colourant, and it’s a staple in kitchens across India, enhancing the flavour of both vegetarian and non-vegetarian dishes.
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When Barman saw the rising demand, he took a leap of faith. “There are three types of bay leaves — Bengal, Bengaluru, and Shillong. I chose the Bengaluru variety because it produces more leaves. He explains that I spent Rs 32,500 on saplings, each costing Rs 50,” he explains.
Bay leaf trees are hardy, tall, and evergreen — ideal for the region. Once planted, they take two to three years to mature. But the reward is long-lasting: “A single tree can yield 15 to 20 kg of leaves every year — for the next 25 years,” Barman says with pride.
Today, farmers lease out their bay leaf gardens to traders for three years. In return, these traders handle everything — from hiring labourers and maintaining the trees to pest control, harvesting, packaging, and even transportation. For farmers like Barman, it means less stress, more support, and a more secure income.
From sapling to spice: What it takes to grow bay leaf
Bay leaf trees may look unassuming, but they are incredibly rewarding for those who nurture them.
“A sapling grows to a height of 1.5–2 feet annually, while a tree can grow to over 20–30 feet,” explains Sukumar Barman. “A 10-foot-tall tree can produce seven to eight kilograms of leaves. It grows well in loamy soil. The quality of soil and dry weather determine the size of a leaf, which is thick, fibrous, shiny, about 1.5–2 inches wide, and 5–8 inches long. It is olive green, dark green, and light brown.”
The harvest season runs from August to December, but the frequency depends on how quickly the leaves mature. “Harvesting occurs every six to eight months — even twice a year in some cases,” Barman adds. Once plucked, the leaves are left to dry for three to four sunny days. But the monsoon season brings its own set of hurdles. “Covering the leaves with plastic sheets becomes expensive because of the extra labour cost,” he notes.
Barman, always keen to maximise his yield, found an innovative way to make the most of his farmland. “When my bay leaf plants grew four feet above the soil, I even planted potatoes and black gram in the space (8x8 feet) between trees. This helps fertilise the field and improves the growth of trees. Two years later, I harvested for the first time when the trees were seven to 10 feet tall. I also do regular pruning,” says the 47-year-old.
Bay leaves are sorted into different quality grades, determining where they’re sent. “The best quality leaves are spotless. A leaf has A, B, and C grades. The A-grade quality is exported to the Gulf countries, while B and C grades are supplied across India. It has 5% GST. The dried leaves are packed in jute bags and plastic bags before being dispatched to cities such as Bengaluru, Hyderabad, Mumbai, Delhi, Gujarat, Punjab, Haryana, and parts of West Bengal,” shares trader Sudeb Sarkar, who currently leases 14 bay leaf gardens.
With demand soaring, a structured but informal system has evolved. Farmers who don’t have enough labour or resources often lease out their gardens through open tenders for a period of three to three-and-a-half years. “The best bidder gets the garden,” explains Sarkar. Once a deal is made, traders step in, bringing in skilled labourers to climb trees and harvest leaves with sickles. Women complete the essential post-harvest work. Today, North Dinajpur alone has around 100–150 such traders.
Trading, profits and the challenges that come with it
While bay leaf farming brings in significant profits for cultivators, the picture differs slightly for traders who take on leased gardens.
“I used to pay Rs 1900 per quintal labour cost for cutting twigs, leaves, stacking, and packing. Further, Rs 700 per quintal is spent on watering the trees, applying proper manure or fertiliser, and spraying insecticides,” explains a 29-year-old trader. “A trader doesn’t benefit as much as a farmer does. With the expiry of the tender, the farmer gets back his garden. Some 30 farmers are still maintaining gardens, while most of the gardens are operated by traders.”
Bay leaf trading may be lucrative, but it’s not without its challenges, particularly regarding plant health.
Guarding the green gold: tackling pests & preserving quality
Beyond its culinary appeal, the bay leaf has medicinal and nutritional benefits. With 314 calories, a single leaf offers 238% of the daily iron requirement, 85% of vitamin B-6, and 83% of calcium. It’s also rich in magnesium, protein, fat, and carbohydrates. But like any crop, bay leaf trees are vulnerable to pest attacks and diseases.
Common ailments include leaf spot, dieback, blight, and bark canker. Harmful pests such as the leaf webber, chafer beetle, cinnamon butterfly, scale insects, and gall mites can cause considerable damage if not managed properly.
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Farmers have found their own ways to address these issues — some relying on chemical methods and others turning to natural solutions. “Although the tender contractor uses chemical insecticide spray for protection, I save the trees using homemade biopesticides, including neem oil, eucalyptus oil, and cow urine. I also spray vermiwash at the 15–30 day interval,” shares Sukumar Barman.
From the nutrient-rich soil of North Dinajpur to kitchens across the country and beyond, the humble bay leaf has become a quiet but powerful agent of change, transforming livelihoods, creating sustainable income, and rooting communities in tradition and innovation. As more farmers and traders unlock its potential, this unassuming leaf may just continue to rewrite stories of rural prosperity in Bengal and beyond.
Edited by Vidya Gowri Venkatesh and Leila Badyari