The word ‘pice’ borrows from the word ‘paisa’, considered the lowest denomination in Indian currency. These hotels were known for food that was light on the pocket.
One of the pice hotels in particular, ‘Swadhin Bharat Hindu Hotel’ near Kolkata’s College Square has an iconic history.
The original name was ‘Hindu Hotel’ in 1912 when it was established by a gentleman named Mangobindo Panda. The name was changed following Independence when Panda marked the occasion by renaming the hotel ‘Swadhin Bharat Hindu Hotel’ — an ode to India’s newfound freedom.
A century ago, if you were to stop by, you would have met the Indian freedom fighters casually sitting around the eatery, waiting for their lunch to be prepared.
Among them, you’d have spotted a bespectacled man in a khaki-coloured uniform — Subhas Chandra Bose.
Reports tell of a time when a group of freedom fighters found themselves inside the hotel.
In the middle of a meeting where they were discussing their retaliation against the British, there was an unexpected police raid.
Mangobindo positioned himself at the doorway, refusing to yield. He remained steadfast until the police finally retreated.
“My grandfather was always supportive of the freedom fighters,” says the current owner Arunanghshu Panda.
He adds, “My grandfather belongs to Cuttack in Odisha, where Bose was born too. Many times, the freedom fighters would stop by, and he would cook a meal for them.”
Arunangshu has heard many stories of how Bose loved the puishaak-er chochchori and murighanta (a Bengali fish delicacy).
While new dishes have been rolled out on the menu, the taste of originals has been preserved.
Customers flocking to the hotel rave about the alu bhaja (crispy fried potato slices), macher dim er bora (fritters prepared with fish eggs), alu kumro chokha (a Bengali-style sweet pumpkin curry), and chingri macher malaikari (a Bengali curry made from Tiger prawns).
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