How One Man Turned His Love for Old Delhi Into Walks Full of Forgotten History

Abu Sufiyan Khan grew up finding beauty in his home city of Delhi, its havelis and baazars.

But he realised that the history walks conducted in his city often focused on only the tourist spots.

Keen to tap into Delhi’s breathless routine, Abu decided to launch ‘Purani Dilli Walo Ki Baatein’ (Talks on Old Delhi), which would explore Delhi’s unexplored side.

Since 2014, the initiative has been curating experiences (including but not limited to heritage and food walks) that act as playful homages to the classics that Delhi is known for.

“There’s plenty of information on the food and the popular monuments. But what about the unheard stories?” Abu shares.

Take, for instance, the Hazrat Shah Waliullah Public Library, which was originally established as a one-room refuge during the 1987 riots.

It now overflows with thousands of books in Urdu, Arabic, Persian, Hindi, and English, a priceless collection of over 30,000 books, including a 100-year-old Quran embossed in gold.

Another such spot is the home of Sikander Mirza Changezi, son of Naseem Mirza Changezi, one of the founding members of the library.

Naseem came from a long line of freedom fighters. One of Abu’s classic anecdotes to tell is of how Naseem once sheltered revolutionary Bhagat Singh in the home for a few days during the freedom struggle.

The walks also take guests through the markets of Delhi and Asia’s largest wholesale spice markets, Khari Baoli.

Snack on one of Old Delhi’s best vegetarian street snacks, long chirey (the name was inspired by the slender shape that resembles little birds) and dori kebabs.

As for the monuments, Abu’s walks cover those too. But you won’t just be witnessing the usual ones; there are ones he’s stumbled on over the years that he now wants you to see.

These include the Kalan Masjid built in 1387 CE, the 200-year-old Jain mandirs (temples) with their Rajasthani carvings and beautiful courtyards, and the structures that have remained a footnote in India’s history.