Cooked with milk, almond pisin (a natural gum), basundi (condensed milk), ice cubes, ice cream, and sherbet, jigarthanda is a cold beverage similar to falooda.
It literally translates to ‘cool heart’ and is the signature drink of Madurai. Jigarthanda is to food fanatics what the city’s famous Meenakshi temple is to devotees.
In 1977, P S Sheik Meeran launched Madurai’s renowned ‘Famous Jigarthanda’ shop. The inception of this establishment traces back to Meeran’s grandfather, who conducted experiments to concoct a unique beverage.
His blend consisted of milk, basundi, and edible almond gum, ultimately giving birth to an early rendition of jigarthanda, albeit served hot.
“Back then, we didn’t add ice cream, which makes the drink cold,” says S Peer Mohammed, the current managing director.
In the late 1970s, Meeran left his studies and moved from Arampannai village to Madurai for better opportunities.
After doing various odd jobs, he purchased a pushcart to sell ice creams. In 1988, he decided to diversify and sell jigarthanda at night.
He saw the drink was available everywhere, so he kept the price per glass lower than others, at Rs 3. He also added more basundi for a better taste to the drink.
This simple yet smart idea worked and Meeran set up his first shop on the busy street of East Marret in 1993.
“When my father moved to Madurai for better growth opportunities, he discovered the present-day version of the drink and started the eatery. He included his own secret ingredients and fine-tuned the recipe to perfection,” says Mohammed.
He adds that even today, they religiously follow the same method, which has made the eatery a must-visit for tourists and a favourite among locals.
Currently, the venture has over 200 franchises across Tamil Nadu with a daily average of 300 to 500 customers per shop — including celebrities, movie stars, and tourists from all over the world.
At the main store, around 1,000 glasses of these chilled drinks are served every day to people craving a sweet respite from the heat.