Ask any resident of Mumbai’s Girgaon about where they get their daily fix of jalebis, fafdas and kachoris and they will tell you about Hiralal Kashidas Bhajiawala (HKB).

The eatery’s amiri khaman, nylon dhokla and other delicacies of Surat-influenced Gujarati cuisine remain unparalleled.

Several generations of families have been loyal customers of this eatery that was started in 1936 by Hiralal, a migrant from Surat.

The family claims to be the first ones in Mumbai to introduce Surti delicacies like khandvi, undhiyu and khaman.

Interestingly, despite a plethora of customers, the shop has been in the same place and is using the same recipe that dates back to the early 1900s.

Some of their famous customers include Anand Mahindra, Amitabh Bachchan and Mukesh Ambani.

In an interview with The Better India, Bakul Shah, Hiralal’s grandson had revealed, “My grandfather put his heart and soul in establishing the eatery. He worked round the clock to give Mumbaikars the real taste of Surat and its elaborate food culture.”

“Our well-guarded recipes passed down from one generation to another is a testimony to the fact that HKB is more than a business for us.”

Bakul had gone on to share that Hiralal specialised in kand bhajiyas and these were so popular that people across Gujarat called him during special occasions to make the snack.

“My grandfather would fry the bhajiyas in a piping hot oil pan in the open. No amount of sweat would deter him from making hundreds of bhajiyas at a stretch.”

In 1930, Hiralal, who never went to school, separated from his brothers due to a family feud and decided to move to Mumbai.

He borrowed a sum of Rs 5,000 from his friend and rented a place in Bhuleshwar. In 1936 when Hiralal set up shop, Mumbai was yet to witness the influx of Gujaratis from the neighbouring state.

Introducing a different cuisine in a city dominated by Maharashtrian flavours was challenging, but his reputation as bhajiwala was such that word of mouth was enough for marketing.

As more Gujaratis settled in areas like CP Tank, Mumbadevi Tank, Bhatia Bhagirathi Tank and Bhuleshwar, HKB’s sales increased over the years.

The burgeoning food lovers were introduced to several items that were either hard to find or were not served authentically in other places of the city. Undhiyu, a seasonal dish, was one of them.

During the winter season and occasions like Dusserah, the eatery sells 100 kilos of undhiyus daily, while sarsiya khaja is a bestseller during monsoons.