Inside Ladakh’s ‘Thab’ Kitchen: A Tradition That’s Kept Its Food Culture Alive for Centuries

31 October 2025

In a land of rugged mountains and short summers, Ladakhis grow what little the earth allows — fresh, organic, and seasonal. But the thab — a wood-fired hearth —is what’s kept their food and culture warm for centuries.

Every Ladakhi home is designed around its kitchen — placed at the centre or wherever sunlight and ventilation are best. Prosperous families often have two kitchens: the chansa for winter, and the yarkhang for summer.

The chansa on the ground floor, with its low ceilings and thick walls, is built to trap warmth during the long winter. The yarkhang, upstairs, opens to the breeze for cooking in summer.

At the centre of both stands the thab, made of clay or metal. The thabma — the seat beside the hearth — is reserved for the woman who lights the first fire.

Around her are rows of raised platforms (zhug-rdan) with carpets and low tables (chogtse), turning into a family room for meals, stories, and warmth on winter nights.

Food here mirrors the land — humble, hearty, and deeply local. Barley (grim), lentils, and peas form the backbone of meals, while dishes like sku, chutagi, zan, and Yarkandi pulao are everyday favourites.

Today, while modern homes use gas stoves and supermarkets stock imported foods, the thab still burns in many homes. In every flame, it carries resilience, warmth and the spirit of Ladakh’s living tradition.