400 Years Ago, A Portuguese Viceroy’s  ‘Table Manners’ Gave India Its Beloved Alphonso

By Krystelle Dsouza 17 May 2025

Every family has its favorite mango variety — Langda, Dussehri, Kesar — but one mango stands above the rest: the Alphonso.

Silky smooth and impossibly fragrant, this beloved mango, now the crown jewel of Indian summers, was first introduced by the Portuguese over 400 years ago.

Not all mangoes were made for careful slicing. Many were fibrous, their pulp best enjoyed the messy way — juice trickling down chins, hands sticky with sweetness.

While this was part of the charm for many Indians, the Portuguese, who ruled over Goa in the 16th century, were accustomed to neatly cut fruit at their dining tables.

They wanted a mango that was smooth, easy to slice, and elegant to serve. Enter Afonso de Albuquerque, a Portuguese general and viceroy.

His men introduced the grafting technique — a method of combining the best traits of different mango trees.

Over time, they cultivated a mango that was not only sweeter and silkier but also easier to slice. To honour Afonso, they named this prized fruit ‘Alphonso’ — and the rest, as they say, is history.

It goes by different names across states; in Maharashtra, it’s fondly called Hapus, in Gujarat, it’s Hafus, while in Karnataka and parts of Goa, people call it Aphoos.

But whatever the name, one thing never changes — it’s rich, buttery texture, irresistible aroma, and melt-in-your-mouth sweetness.

For generations, Konkan farmers have carefully nurtured these mango trees. Ratnagiri and Devgad Alphonso sell out at premium prices as they are the original GI-tagged Alphonso.

The Alphonso isn’t just a mango; it’s the taste of summer itself.