In the early 1930s, Aboobacker — a teenage boy from Kayamkulam, Kerala — ran away from home after an argument with his father. He boarded a bus to Tamil Nadu, where survival meant taking up multiple jobs.
Eventually, Aboobacker found work with a group of jow mittai (sugar candy) makers in Nagore Starting as a helper, he learned the art of candy-making and soon mastered it.
Years later, Aboobacker returned to Kerala, married, and raised three sons. The family’s only means of livelihood? The traditional candy business.
From a young age, Aboobacker’s sons joined him in making jow mittai, which is lovingly called panjara paalu mittayi (sugar-milk candy) in Malayalam. Today, the legacy lives on through his second son, A T Basheer.
Every two days, Basheer prepares his candy with great care. He mixes 10 kg of sugar with five glasses of water and the juice of two lemons. He boils this mixture for 30 minutes until it reaches a certain stage in which the candy can be expanded using hands, after cooling down.
The candy is cooled in coconut oil-coated tumblers. Basheer then stretches the mixture like Kerala porotta, shaping it into thin, customisable candies, sometimes stretching it into a one-metre-long string.
“The candy-making process is a strenuous task. Earlier, my father and elder brother used to help in the preparation,” shares Basheer, who now manages everything alone. “I will continue to mould and sell the candies till my health allows it.”
Basheer’s daily routine involves taking his candy to South Beach, where he’s surrounded by eager customers. “Most of my customers here are adults who used to love eating candies as kids,” he says.
Basheer crafts candies in various shapes, from motorcycles to butterflies, offering a delight that brings back cherished childhood memories. According to Basheer, he and his younger brother are the only ones left in Kerala who still prepare this traditional candy.
Basheer earns around Rs 2,000 daily, with Rs 500 spent on ingredients (as of November 2022). He also receives special wedding orders, where panjara paalu mittayi adds a sweet touch of nostalgia to the celebrations.