In 1930, Andre Mascarenhas returned to Goa from Mumbai with a dream and a few treasured recipes.
Back in Goa’s Fontainhas, he founded a bakery, Confeitaria 31 De Janeiro.
Today, the storied bakery is run by Andre’s grandson, Warren Mascarenhas, along with his mother, Gletta.
Warren shares that, in addition to bread and a handful of Goan staples — festive plum cakes, pinag (a sweet made with rice, coconut and jaggery), Madeiran Bolo de Mel (honey cake), his grandfather introduced the wine biscuits. He often slept in the bakery while trying to perfect the menu.
When Andre passed away, it was a love for their legacy and their culinary ingenuity that kept the family going.
Gletta would sift through yellowing recipe books, translating Portuguese ingredients into English, and attempting to crack her father-in-law’s culinary secrets.
While the classics remain untouched, they’ve enjoyed creating everything from a Bailey’s cheesecake pastry to a wood-fired twist on the Basque cheesecake.
The wood-fired oven at Confeitaria 31 De Janeiro is large enough for a man to enter.
Since 1930, the 20 feet x 20 feet space has been where breads and puffs are baked in the mornings and cakes and puffs later in the day.
But it’s not just the wood-fire technique that makes the bakes special. Gletta explains, “We don’t use preservatives. That means a shelf life of just a few days, but also a flavour and freshness you can’t get anywhere else.”
And the next time you’re in Goa, you’ll know exactly where breakfast is waiting!